The history of hydroponics is like a giant tree with its roots anchored deep in antiquity. A rich history that spans from the formation of the seas, rivers and lakes to China, Arabia and Greek Aristotle. From Babylon to the USA to ancient Egypt and the Aztecs.

Growing plants in water without soil is an amazing thing. It is an agricultural technology known today as hydroponics. Hydroponic cultivation systems are very hip and are likely to become even more so. You can grow in a small box at home or in a large commercial glasshouse. Most of the fruit and vegetables we eat today are grown hydroponically.

Precise control delivers higher yields where the correct mineral nutrients are used. With the current complexity of measuring equipment and technological advancements in the industry, the outlook of hydroponics appears bright. Hydroponic practices have even been utilised to provide astronauts with garden-fresh food during space missions to Mars.

The word hydroponics comes from the Greek words hydro (water) and ponos (to work) and literally means ‘water work’. The first hydroponic systems originate from ancient times. In fact, The Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the seven wonders of the world and the floating gardens of the Aztecs in Mexico are largely believed to have used hydroponic principles. Thanks to the continuous flooding it was possible to cultivate food the whole year round.

The basis for modern hydroponic systems and nutrient solutions took place after the experiments performed during 1860-1895 by studious German scientists Julius Von Sachs and W. Knopp in the search for the proportions of nutrients vital to plants.  W. Knopp is known as the “father of water culture” and the discoveries of Von Sachs marked the beginning of “Nutriculture”.

The first successful commercial hydroponic systems were developed in the 1930s by Dr. William Frederick Gericke, an agronomist and teacher of plant nutrition at the University of California at Berkeley in the USA. One of the first commercial uses of hydroponics occurred during the Second World War when these systems were adapted to provide American troops with fresh crops.

Hydroponic Scandal

William Gericke is accredited with providing hydroponics its name, but his work is often clouded with scandal. Though his hydroponic research was done while employed at UC Berkeley, he declared that his work on the theory was completed in his own time. Gericke refused to share any of his findings or research and departed the university prior to publishing his famous work on the subject, “Complete Guide to Soil-Less Gardening.” Two other Berkeley scientists, Dennis Hoagland and Daniel Arnon were given the job of expanding upon Gericke’s research. In 1938, they published “The Water Culture Method for Growing Plants without Soil,” which is widely considered to be one of the most important texts ever published about modern hydroponics. Several of the nutrient solutions they developed are currently in use today. [source: Time Magazine].

One of the many benefits of hydroponic gardening is that you’ll likely experience fewer pests and diseases. When growing indoors in a closed system, growers can take more control of the environment, but this doesn’t mean your plants will be totally
immune to those tiny invaders.

Where there are luscious green plants, you can be sure there are pests waiting to make a home! If they do find their way into your setup, unfortunately they will lack the natural competition that exists in a regular garden, meaning a small pest problem may turn into a major issue if left unattended.

Here are 6 common pests you may come across during your hydroponic journey, and our advice on what to do about them.

Aphids

Aphids are resourceful little critters – they can be born pregnant, and don’t need a
male to reproduce, meaning that a colony can start from a single insect. Once the
colony has grown, they will start to produce flying aphids in order to find new host
plants, which is how they may find their way into your hydroponic setup.

An aphid infestation can be deadly to your plants. They can spread viral plant
diseases and suck sap causing your plant to wilt, whilst attracting sugar-loving ants.
Plants that are overfed with high nitrogen synthetic fertilisers are particularly
susceptible to aphids.

While their rapid reproduction rate makes them hard to get rid of, they have soft
bodies and are easily squashed or killed with insecticidal soap, and you can even
use live ladybugs to devour the aphids.

Spider Mites

True to their name, Spider Mites produce fine webs which they use for protection
and to travel from leaf to leaf.
Make sure you tackle spider mites quickly and isolate any infected plants, as they
develop large colonies very quickly. They will suck juice from your plants, leaving
weak, speckled leaves.

Spider mites prefer dry environments, so a highly humid grow room should keep
them at bay.
Attack spider mites with neem every few days and keep a close eye on your plants for any sign of return. Wettable Sulphur is also very effective for preventative measures and larger infestations.

Whiteflies

These minuscule white insects will suck the life out of your plant, while producing a
fluid that can breed mould. In fact, the mould may be the first sign you notice.
You can attack these insects using chemical-free methods like sticky traps, neem oil
and releasing parasitic wasps that feed on whitefly nymphs, while raking the small
eggs from leaves.

Thrips

You are more likely to notice the damage thrips have caused before you spot these
tiny, fast insects. They cause older leaves to appear silver and scaley, and new
leaves and fruit to grow distorted.
You can tackle thrips by spraying with pyrethrum or neem and cutting off a stage of
their life cycle by blocking the roots with plastic. You can also scrape off the small
white eggs and crush them.

Mealy Bugs

The small, white and “furry” looking insect will make a permanent home of its chosen
plant and suck the life out of it.
Their hard shell makes them difficult to kill with insecticides, so its best to attack the
younger generations without this defence. A slow yet effective method to get rid of
mealy bugs is to swab the adults with alcohol, and attack the younger insects with
pyrethrum, whilst being sure not to overwater or over fertilise.

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats look a lot like whiteflies, and while the adults won’t damage your
plants, the maggot-like larvae will destroy your roots and your plant will quickly
display signs of nutrient deficiencies. Once they have infested the roots, it is unlikely
that you will be able to save your plant.

Fungus Gnats are attracted to algae and dead matter, so using alga-killing treatment
and removing old plant material will help. You can use sticky traps, neem oil,
insecticidal soap, and pyrethrin to attack the adults. Low dilution hydrogen peroxide
can also work, but make sure you’ve done your research as this can burn your
plants.

Remember, prevention is always the best cure, and it’s important to practice healthy
propagation hygiene when it comes to your hydroponic setup. Avoid bringing in tools
from your outdoor garden, as these can introduce pests and their eggs into the
environment.

Make sure all possible entry points are covered and
protect vents with insect proof netting. Once you do notice a pest infestation, the key is to tackle it immediately. Insects
reproduce quickly and by the hundreds, so you may find yourself with serious problem sooner than you think.

When using traditional growing methods, an acre of land can equal an acre of
vegetables. With hydroponics, depending on how high you’re willing to go, an acre of
land can grow as many vegetables as you’d like.

Hydroponic gardening is fast becoming a priority for environmentally conscious
people and companies, and it’s not hard to see why – it’s estimated that the food we
eat contributes to almost a third of our global carbon footprint.

With the current trends of agricultural food production and consumption impacting
our environment so extensively, many people are looking for alternative ways to
grow and source their food.

While the initial setup costs can be high, the rewards on a personal and global level
are endless. Here are five of the biggest benefits of hydroponic growing for the
environment and humanity.

Reduced Fossil Fuels

When fruits and vegetables are out of season in a country, those items will be
sourced from across the globe, with food often travelling thousands of miles to arrive
on a plate. Airplane, cruise and truck travel contribute significantly to fossil fuels, and
it is becoming increasingly necessary to reevaluate how we produce and distribute
our food on a mass scale.

Hydroponics remove that need to source food from other countries, allowing you to
create your own mini environment and controlled climate as well as a smarter way of
distributing food. If gardens can be grown in the middle of a city, there is less need
for food to travel the long distance to your table.

Less Need for Pesticides

While no garden is completely safe from pests, the controlled soilless environments
of hydroponics makes them less of a risk. With so many harmful pesticides available
on the market, less pesticides are a win for human health and the environment.

With controlled growing environments, growers can get more innovative with their
control of pests, like introducing natural predators or toxin free plant nutrients into the
setup. This means less chemicals are ending up in our plants, food and waterways.

Increased Water Conservation

Traditional agriculture accounts for around 70% of the world’s water use, and much
of that can be lost in the soil. Despite relying on water-based solutions instead of
soil, hydroponics can use less water when compared to regular farming!

More Resourceful Farming Practices

The beauty of hydroponics is that you are not at the mercy of your environment,
meaning areas with little access to natural resources can still grow fresh food.
Hydroponics doesn’t discriminate by region – as long as you set it up properly, you
can grow a garden in the middle of a desert or underneath a bustling city.

Hydroponics can also feed more mouths in less time and using less space.
As you are able to control ideal growth factors like light and moisture, you can grow a
greater quantity and variety of plants at a faster rate, and due to the vertical nature of
hydroponic setups, you can experience high yields in a small area.

Less Land Erosion

The quality of land can be left devastated after agricultural land farming. Hydroponics
can remove this consequence entirely, as farms can be set up in currently developed
areas.

Improved Quality and Health

Hydroponic farms have the ability to be widely dispersed in cities and barren areas,
giving communities better access to local fruits and vegetables. Without the need to
import products from distant countries, the produce is likely to be cheaper, fresher,
and exposed to less chemicals.
On a global scale, this can have wide-reaching effects on the health of communities.

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Just because it’s natural doesn’t mean it’s not powerful!

These versatile herbs may help relieve and prevent common ailments such as colds
and flu, inflammation, indigestion, bug bites, headaches, insomnia, anxiety and
more.

In order to reap the benefits of herbs, you can boil them in a tea, make tinctures or
create a salve.

Improve your health and save money while you’re at it by growing these
medicinal herbs in your hydroponic garden using Reiziger.

Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)

The calming chamomile plant can be used for stress relief, tension, indigestion, colic
and to relieve skin inflammation and irritations.

Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea)

The perennial echinacea plant is said to be a powerful immune booster and is used
to combat symptoms of colds, flu, and infections.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

The active phenol in thyme is thymol, known to be a potent antiseptic. It is useful for
coughs, sore throat, tooth decay, congestion and indigestion.

Wild Pansy (Viola tricolor)

Another anti-inflammatory herb, the wild tansy can be used to ease eczema and skin
blemishes and help loosen phlegm. It was also believed to help the heart, which is
why it is sometimes called heartsease.

Lavender

Simply the smell of lavender has been shown to help people relax. It can be used as
an antiseptic and is useful for skin inflammation, insomnia and anxiety.

St John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum)

In the Middle Ages, St John’s Wort was considered a magical plant. These days, it’s
used to help with depression, anxiety, disorders and skin irritation like psoriasis.

Alfalfa (Medicago sativa)

Alfalfa is rich in minerals and healthy compounds, and contains a high amount of
protein. It has been used to treat morning sickness, nausea, kidney issues and
urinary tract discomfort. It also acts as a diuretic and a light stimulant.

Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

This staple spaghetti topper actually has a range of medicinal uses and can help with
a lack of appetite, excess gas and cuts.

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)

The leaves of the feverfew can be used in teas and chewed to relieve headaches. As
a natural anti-inflammatory, it is said to help with arthritis and a variety of skin
conditions.

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)

Closely related to mint, lemon balm can help relieve insect bites, wounds, upset
stomach, insomnia, and even aids the healing of cold sores.

Marigold (Tagetes)

Marigold has a wide range of uses, including treating acne, sunburn, ulcers,
digestive problems, insect bites and more.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)

Useful for so much more than plate decoration, parsley can treat bad breath, gas,
inflammation, and even has anti-cancer properties.

Peppermint (Mentha × Piperita)

Peppermint should be a go-to for any stomach issues. It has also been shown to
help with alertness and headaches.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Rosemary is one of the best herbs to improve concentration, memory and mood. It is
also great for wound healing, hair growth, and bad breath.

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

The name Sage is derived from a word that means “to heal” or “to save”, reflecting
its historical use as a medicinal herb. It is useful for a variety of ailments, including
mouth and throat inflammations, bloating, heartburn and depression.

Hydroponics can be one of the most rewarding ways to garden, but if you rush into it you may find yourself frustrated with slow growing or diseased plants.

It’s important to take it slow and do your research before implementing your hydroponic setup, as one rookie mistake might take down your whole crop.

Here are 7 common oversights to avoid.

Skipping the study

Don’t take on this mission alone – there are so many resources available for the modern day hydroponic grower. This method is both an art and a science, and trusting your instincts may leave you with some sad looking plants and heading back to the drawing board.

Ignoring sanitation

Treat your hydroponic setup like your laboratory, and that means maintaining cleanliness. You may be used to getting your hands dirty in your garden, but poor sanitation can encourage pests and spread bacteria, pathogens and plant disease. Make sure you clean your tools and containers, dispose of plant waste properly, and keep the surrounding area dry.

Not investing in high quality nutrients

Hydroponic plants can experience astonishing growth in a short amount of time – but only if you fuel them correctly. When you’re growing plants without soil, it’s crucial you invest in high-quality, tried-and-tested nutritional formulas. Not all nutrient solutions are created equal, and you get what you pay for with cheap products.

Hydroponics take a little investment, so don’t skimp where it counts.

Insufficient ventilation

Many people leave ventilation as an afterthought, but don’t underestimate the importance of air flow for your plants. When it comes to warm and humid environments, there is a significant risk of mould growth. Adding a fan to your garden is a worthwhile investment, and if you’re growing indoors it’s recommended you use venting to circulate fresh air.

Incorrect lighting

The intensity, cycle, spectrum and placement of your lights need to be thoroughly thought through. Many hydroponic growers slip up with this step, and with so many options available on the market it’s easy to get confused.

If you’re growing your plants indoors, this will be one of your most important investments in order for your plants to experience vigorous growth. Some species will thrive in low light conditions, while others may need to spend most of their lives under a lamp. Again, it’s all about undertaking adequate research for each plants you plan to grow.

Remember that more is not always better. Plants require down time in the dark, just like you do. Unfortunately there is no one-size-fits-all approach when it comes to hydroponics.

Harvesting too early

It might be tempting to sample your newly home-grown produce, but do this too early and certain plants will never reach their full potential. Patience may very well be one of the most important virtues a grower can learn.

Neglecting pH levels

If your solution is too alkaline or too acidic, your plants will have nutrient deficiencies, and this is the most common cause of plant death.

pH is the most valuable measurement you need to understand for your hydroponic setup, so invest in a high-quality pH meter and make sure you’re checking it daily. As all your plants may share a solution, it’s crucial you take quick action before your entire crop is in trouble.

Hydroponic gardening is gardening without soil, and that means to grow your crops you need a good replacement medium. But what exactly is a growing medium?

A growing medium, also known as a substrate or potting mix, is a material other than soil that is used to grow plants in. Plants require a medium that can hold their roots in order to grow, but can grow in anything really, as long as there is water, sufficient nutrients and oxygen available.

In soilless culture or hydroponics, soil is replicated by the use of a growing medium. Since the introduction of soilless culture, many types of growing media have been tried. Some have proven to be successful, others have not. Let’s take a closer look at some of the different types.

Peat moss

Peat is made from an accumulation of partially decayed plant remains or organic matter. There are several different qualities available on the market from partially decomposed to highly decomposed with large variations in particle size. Our peat mix has been formulated as a superior base for fruiting and flowering plants grown in containers, pots or beds.

Stone wool

Stone wool is made from melted basalt and limestone that is spun and solidified as fibres. It can be supplied in the form of slabs, plant blocks, plugs, or granules. In general, after complete saturation, stone wool slabs are very wet. Most of the water can be extracted with low moisture tensions, but when a stone wool slab is dried out completely it is difficult to rewet it. Stone wool granules are mostly applied as components of potting soil mixtures.

Sand

Sand is very heavy as a medium and has a very limited water buffer and often low air content; this is because sand contains few big pores. Therefore, as growing medium, coarse sand is preferred. Would would suggest against growing oxygen-sensitive crops with this medium.

Lava

When lava solidifies into solid rock it can be dug up, broken and sieved for use as a growing medium. Because of its small water buffer, water irrigation must be frequent. Lava is suitable for use in thin substrate layers. It’s a heavy product with a moderate amount of pores, and due to its granular form it is airy, but retains little water.

Pumice

Pumice is another volcanic product. This material has a porous structure, and of all the volcanic rocks, pumice has the lowest bulk density. Some sources contain clay particles so that the air content is low and blockages may occur for proper drainage. It’s a very durable medium and can be applied for several years.

Perlite

This glass-like volcanic rock can be found in all various places worldwide. For use, it is ground, sieved and then roasted at 10,000˚C. Perlite is used often in potting soil mixtures and increasingly as a growing medium. It’s very porous, light, and can hold lots of water and air. It has no buffering capacity for nutrients.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane is produced from mineral oil products and is often used in the furniture industry and in mattresses. The cutting remnants are made applicable for substrate growing after they are ground to granules. Polyurethane contains much air and little water, so water supply should be frequent. It’s flexible, has a low EC and no pH buffer, and lasts at least 10 years.

Phenol resin

Phenol resin foam is made by foaming up mineral oil products. A well known form is flower sticking foam. This product can be produced as a slab, or as granules, which are often used in orchid and anthurium crops. The foam retains water but in its granular form it contains more air because of the cavities between the granules.

Coir

Coir is a waste product derived from coconuts and consists of coir dust, coir chips and coir fibre. Its bark contains fibres and dust. Coir fibres contain oxygen with a low water holding capacity; coir dust absorbs water but retains adequate oxygen. The products are not inert, which means they react to fertilisers and have a high buffering capacity for nutrient elements. Our coco coir pith will help plants absorb 50% more nutrients than ordinary coco peat to grow plants twice the size and protect against over and under fertilising.

Expanded clay

This medium is created by baking specific types of dry clay until they expand. In the process, various granule sizes are produced, as well as broken clay granules. Expanded clay granules have a low weight and a porous structure, containing a large amount of air and little water, they are strong and can be washed and reused. Our expanded clay products provide optimal aeration and drainage, as well as vigorous root growth.

For more help or information about our products, contact us on 1800 Reiziger.

If you’ve noticed the leaf tips on your plants curling, or turning yellow, tan, gold or brown, it’s likely to be the first stages of nutrient burn.

Nutrient burn most commonly occurs when plants are fed excessive levels of nutrients. Reiziger nutrients can help increase plant growth and yields because these nutrients are easily absorbed by the plant roots. This means that the plant doesn’t have to work to get the nutrients, and it’s possible that it may take in more nutrients than it can use if the levels are too high.

Don’t panic though, it’s not all bad news. Some growers say that a little nutrient burn is a good thing, because it means the plant is getting the highest level of nutrients it can use.

Many growers make the mistake of thinking that nutrients are simply plant ‘food’, and that more food equals more energy, and bigger yields. Instead, think of nutrients like a multivitamin for your plant. You can’t give your plants 10 times the regular dose of nutrients and gain positive results.

Controlling nutrient levels can be frustrating because different plant strains will tolerate different nutrient levels. Two plants can be given the exact same nutrient doses, and one may get nutrient burn while the other plant is actually deficient. This is because different plants absorb nutrients at different rates.

For growers without an EC meter to measure nutrient levels in the water, we recommend starting plants with a smaller nutrient dose and then working up to higher nutrient levels. If lower leaves start to yellow too quickly, this indicates a nitrogen deficiency. However, it’s important to maintain increasing nutrient levels slowly. Losing a few lower leaves from a minor nutrient deficiency is far better than a nutrient burn that can affect the whole plant.

Now, let’s discuss how to remedy these nutrient burns. For hand-watered systems, such as soil or coco coir, flush your system with plain, pH’ed water at the first signs of nutrient burn. If you are not adding extra nutrients, simply wait until the plant uses up excess nutrients. When the nutes have been absorbed, the plant will naturally recover from the burn. Old leaves won’t recover, but new leaves should no longer get brown or burnt tips.

For hydro systems, reduce the nutrient levels in your water reservoir by either adding plain pH’ed water to dilute the water, or mixing up a new set of nutrients (at lower levels) and completely changing the water. Avoid making big changes too fast. It’s best to go relatively slowly in hydro systems. Once you change the water and lower nutrient levels to an appropriate level, the nutrient burn should stop spreading immediately. Old leaves won’t recover, but neither will they get worse.

For more help or information about our products, contact us on 1800 Reiziger.